NEWER Industries Presents :
How to Series #1
As illustrated in figure 1, the module is constructed of 1 x 4's, plywood, and 2 x 4's. The plywood is cut with 30" x 48", making sure the plywood is square. Then the 1x4's are cut, again making sure the ends are square. The long boards (front and back) are cut 48" long, and the short boards (sides) are cut 28 1/2". These are 28 1/2" because of the 1x4's being 3/4" thick normally, measure your wood thickness first incase it is thicker, or thinner. Notice that the front and back "cap" the sides, this is why the sides are less than 30" (side boards 30" minus two 1x4's thicknesses of 3/4" or 1 1/2" = 28 1/2"). Use the same method on the middle brace, 48" - 1 1/2" = 46 1/2".
The legs are a bit harder, see figure 2. Step 1 We used to cut a 4' long 2x4 down the middle, stopping about 8" shy of the end. Step 2 Then we cut diagonally towards the end, so as to have a beveled edge. Step 3 The remainder is discarded, and a 3 1/2" circle is drawn on the end, as well as the center of the circle, for a 1" hole (we'll get back to that in a bit). Step 4 Next we trim the top end of the leg round. Step 5 Finally drill a 1" hole in the middle of the rounded part.
The frame of 1x4 is then built, using the plywood as a guide to keep everything square. We glued and screwed ours. Also as we got good at it, we also cut two legs out of one 4 foot long 2x4 with a jigsaw. The bottoms of the legs where retro fitted a few years back, and all new legs have a bolt/screw leg leveler. The last 4 to 6 inches of the leg was cut off, and a 1/4" bolt/screw made of a 1/4-20 machine thread and a wood screw thread is inserted wood screw half into the upper part of the leg, and a 1/4"-20 hex coupler pounded into a 1/4" hole drilled about 1 into the lower part of the leg, and threaded onto the bolt. This allows the leg to be raised or lowered about a full inch before it becomes unstable. It's also very easy to adjust just by turning the bottom of the leg.
The legs are then put in position, held in place with a clamp, so that a 1x4 4" long can be placed next to the leg end. This is to brace the leg. This is glued and screwed to the plywood top, and the side 1x4, but not to the leg. Be careful not to glue everything together. See figure 3, the 1x4's are in blue, the leg is in black.
When the glue has set, drill a 1" hole in the middle of the rounded part of the top (center the hole on the center of the circle you drew to make the rounded top). Make sure this straight and square! The hole is shown in red. This will act as a hinge for the leg. A 1" dowel is then inserted into the hole, with a nail through the middle of the dowel, hidden on the inside of the frame, and a bent one hole conduit strap fit over the end. See figure 4.
After this, the leg should open and close with ease. The nail should be as close to the 1x4 brace as possible. The leg and 1x4 frame are not shown, and the rest of the dowel is shaded in figure 4. The last part of the module construction is to insert a set screw/insert nut into the top end of the leg that will touch the side of the frame. Open the leg all the way open. If you have the module upside down, the leg should be sticking straight up, and not at an angle. Drill a hole in the middle of the frame (measured from top of the frame to bottom of frame, not including the plywood top), and centered in the middle of the leg. See figure 5.
Make the hole 1/4", drill though 1x4 frame, and about 3/4" into the leg. Collapse leg and drill a 3/8" hole in the 1/4" and insert coupler. This is for the 1/4"-20 x 1 1/4" bolt to hold the leg up and open.
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